Opening and closing the case The mysteries of the locked door and window have been revealed

Opening and closing the case The mysteries of the locked door and window have been revealed

Sometimes, when the opportunity arises, you can not open the door. It's mysteriously stuck. You move to open the window of opportunity, and after many rumors, you realize that you can not open this door either. What is happening here?

Learn how and why doors and windows stick and how to fix them. So, you will not be blocked the next time the opportunity arises!

Stuck windows

Windows can stay in place for a variety of reasons. Often, the wood expands and contracts, the moving parts are covered with paint, or two surfaces may appear to be simply fused together. Some of the most common problems and solutions for blocked windows are:

Paint-coated gasket Cut off the paint with a window zipper (specially designed tool) or a putty knife. Hold the blade flat against the frame and push the edge into the joint while pulling the tool along the surface.

Paint Accumulation In the same way that when joints are painted, years of painting can also lead to build up causing excessive friction. Use a paint scraper to remove excess paint from the window stopper, the separation strip and the stopper. Raise and lower the belt throughout the process. For a lower opening, it is also possible to remove the window stop to sand and scratch the edges facing the window. If none of the easier solutions are successful, remove the two frames and peel the paint completely to bare wood. Repaint the belts and reinstall them when the pain is dry.

Too much friction Lubricate the guillotine channels with candle wax or talcum powder. It can also prevent painted surfaces from sticking together. If you find a spring-loaded weatherstrip in the chassis channels, reduce tension by using a hammer and a block of wood to flatten the band.

Simply stuck. A sharp blow to the central rail near the lock can sometimes break the bond between the painted surfaces. The shot can be administered with the palm of the hand or a rubber mallet. Another option is to gently tap a block of wood on the sides of the belt.

New friction channels. If you have some free time and want to avoid heat loss, you can also install new friction channels. To do this, first remove the belts, weights and pulleys.

Insert the fiberglass insulation into the openings for the weighing cavities. Start at the top and get off with a soft rod or stick.

Using a hammer and a sharp chisel, snap the ends of the top separation strip to create the new channels.

Replace the window frames between the two new channels. Tilt the set in the opening from the bottom to the inside.

Finally, reinstall the inner stops according to the manufacturer's instructions for adjusting the tension. If the windows are too loose after installing the stops, increase the tension by hitting a block of wood against the stopper when installing the nails. When the tension seems appropriate, push in several nails.

Stuck doors

Doors can stick for many of the same reasons as windows: too much tension or paint on moving parts. However, with the addition of hinges, this also opens up a whole new field of possible reasons for locked doors.

The door is rubbing against the amount. The solution to this problem differs depending on which side the door rubs against the amount. If the door rubs against the jamb on the hinge side, you will have to wedge the hinges. Unscrew the hinge from the upright and place a piece of cardboard behind it. Stalling the bottom hinge can solve the problem of attaching the door to the top of the striker post.

If the door rubs against the jamb on the side without the hinge or against another part of the door frame, it may be necessary to change the door to fit. Mark the door with lines drawn so that you know where to plane and remove the door (remove the lower pin first and gradually increase). Place the door on a flat surface and plan the appropriate edges.

Hinge screws loosened. To secure the loose hinge screws, open the door and remove them. Fold the hinge making sure not to lose the existing shims. Buy or cut pieces of wood according to the holes. Add some glue and push the pieces of wood into the holes. Scrape the wood plugs until they are flush, bend the hinge in place, drill pilot holes and screw in new screws.

Move a stop. Sometimes it's easier to move the stop than to unlock a door. If a door catches against the hinge end stop or does not close properly due to a misplaced stop on the latch side, remove the bump stop. Close the door and draw a line along the inside edge of the doors. Nail the stop on this line.

Move a strike. A lock and a strike may not be aligned because a house has been installed. If the striker is too far away, chock it with cardboard. If it is too close, unscrew the striker, chisel a new mortise, drill guide holes and replace the striker. If necessary, use wood filler to fill the mortise hole and sand until smooth.

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