Inserted in How to replace screens in your Windows

Inserted in How to replace screens in your Windows

In many parts of the world, mosquito nets are an important necessity for a comfortable life. Although extremely useful in preventing unwanted intruders and bringing in fresh air, screens are inherently sensitive and often need to be repaired or replaced. Especially if you have a turbulent dog and a mosquito net, as my parents do. In their case, they learned to keep a fresh screening roll on hand. In your case, I hope it will not be so regular!

On a do-it-yourself scale, repairing or replacing screens is relatively easy and requires little elbow grease. The only materials required are:

new screening or screening patch

the scissors

domestic cement

screen rolling tool

razor knife

square

1x2 and 1x4 actions to stretch the new projection

stapler

brads

wood putty

Screen repair

If you have noticed a small hole in your mosquito net with a diameter of less than 3 cm, you can simply fix it. Plastic screens are hard to repair and probably need to be replaced. Fiberglass screens can be placed back and forth, while metal screens are easy to patch.

Measure the hole (s) and buy ready-to-use patches or cut them from new sieving. For small holes, the patch should have a minimum diameter greater than at least half an inch in the hole. Larger holes require an extra inch full diameter of the replacement screen.

To insert the patch in the screen, delineate a few. Interlace these bits with the sieve and bend them until the patch is held firmly in place. The supports can usually be folded by hand, but if the sieving is heavier, you can use long-nose pliers. Plastic patches also require some home cement on the ends of the strand after weaving in the screen.

Small holes (less than 3/8 ") with household cement.

Screen replacement

Replacing screens in metal and wood frames may require different procedures. Replacing the screens in the metal frames being easier, I will first talk about this process, then replacing the screens in the wooden frames.

Replace the sieve in a metal frame

Remove the screen from the window and place it on a hard, flat surface large enough to support the entire frame.

Remove the rubber edge from the old screen. Set it aside for reuse if it is in good condition. Otherwise, throw it away. Measure and cut a new rubber edge.

Remove the old damaged screen. The damaged sieve and leftovers can be saved for future repairs.

Using the old dither as a pattern or as a measure of the window, measure the new dithering from a replacement roll. Be sure to leave enough excess shielding on all sides, usually enough to reach the outside of the frame and a little more.

Using a scrolling screen tool, start in one corner of the frame to tighten the screen. Press the rubber edge into the groove and secure the screen in the frame. Work slowly and with a firm hand around the screen. This avoids bending the screen frame, often thin aluminum, and tearing the screen with the screen rolling tool.

If the process seems difficult, try first to attach the material to the frame (recommended for the fabric but not for the aluminum) or use a spacer to support the long screens.

When the screening is pressed tightly into the frame, trim excess material with a razor knife.

Replace the screen in the window. Sit back and relax in your house without insects!

Replace the sieve in a wooden frame

Replace the sieve in a wooden frame peut être plus difficile en raison du soin nécessaire à la fixation du tamis au cadre.

In the existing frame, start at the center of a screen molding strip and advance to the ends by gently prying. Be careful not to break it.

For wood frames, the corner stretch method ensures tight sieving for a quality finished product. For this method, have a stock 1x2 slightly wider than the frame. Also use 1x4 actions to make the wedges.

Cut the new screening of a replacement roll. Be sure to leave enough excess shielding on all sides, usually enough to reach the outside of the frame and a little more.

Filtering the staples on the top edge. Nail the lower latch on a workbench or flat surface and install the 1x2 latches. Roll the new screen over the cleats and nail on the top latch.

Between the cleats and the frame of the screen, insert the shims. Tap the wedges until the screen is tight.

Every few inches, place a staple in the screen at the bottom and then at the sides.

Trim excess screening. Countersink brads to refit screen moldings and fill holes with wood putty.

Finally, firmly staple the entire screen from the center bracket to the outside. Remove the shims and the screen must remain tight. Use a screen rolling tool or putty knife to replace the screen moldings. As with the metal frame screen, relax and enjoy the calm that your hard work has provided!

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